In this guide, you’ll learn how to clean your Dyson V8 thoroughly.
This article is split into sections representing the various components of the V8 that require cleaning.
I’ve purchased several Dyson vacuums over the past year and ran them through various cleaning tests, so the next step is to clean them, which I’ll share here.
- Rubber gloves: Excellent way to keep finger marks off the vacuum. I’m kind of OC with smudges. It also will keep your hands clean.
- Trash container: Get something with a wide opening to dispose of the dustbin contents.
- Screwdriver set: You’ll need this for disassembling the Dyson V8 cyclone. Get something with a magnetic head, as some of the bolts are in deep locations. So it won’t be difficult to reattach the fasteners.
I’ll start by showing you how to clean the filter.
The V8 comes with two:
- Pre-motor filter that sits in the middle of the cyclone
- Post-motor behind the motor.
Both of these filters are washable. I’ve read in some blogs to use soapy water, but I’d advise against it because it’ll permeate through the filter material, thus reducing its effectiveness at filtering fine dirt.
Also, using soap will make it harder to rinse since you have to remove any soapy residue.
Tap water will suffice.
Steps to clean the pre-motor filter:
- Pull out the pre-motor filter.
- Rinse under running water. Avoid using a scrubby as it may damage the filter material.
- Wring out excess water.
- Please wait for it to dry thoroughly before reattaching the vacuum.
Dyson recommends cleaning the filter once a month. For frequent users, it’s best to do a visual check periodically for accumulation.
You can remove the top part of the filter using a blunt tool. This part is held in place by clips. Carefully push the clip using a device (like in the photo below).
Don’t go too hard, or the plastic holding the clips may snap.
Once the cover out, it’s easier to clean the inner part of the filter.
To prevent any downtime, purchase an extra filter(s), so you’ll have something to use while waiting.
There are a ton of options – OEM and replacement. I’d suggest spending more for an original to get the same filtration without degrading performance.
Replacement options are less expensive, but there’s a risk of it not sifting allergens as well, thus compromising filtration.
- Twist the filter counterclockwise to unlock and remove it.
- Rinse under running water to remove any accumulation of dirt.
- Shake well, then let it dry completely before reattaching.
The post-motor HEPA filter doesn’t need frequent cleaning as the pre-motor filter. Dyson cyclones are good enough at keeping particles of dirt away from it.
I checked Dyson, and they didn’t mention specifically the interval. However, one online vacuum store recommends cleaning it every three months.
Please note that both filters are what Dyson calls “lifetime,” meaning it will last the vacuum’s lifetime if you follow the maintenance protocols.
The V8 has two types of cleaning heads – the Fluffy attachment and the standard brush.
I’ll show you how to clean both. Even if both nozzles can resist tangles, checking and cleaning this part regularly is essential.
Any debris buildup will add extra friction and wear – not good for longevity.
Steps to clean the V8 Fluffy tool
1. Remove the plastic clip
Underneath the fluffy attachment, you’ll see a plastic bolt holding the roller bar in place. Use a coin to unlock.
2. Take out the roller attachment
You’ll see an arrow graphic on the right side of the tool. Push this side down to remove the soft roller.
Once this part is out, the smaller roller component behind it also comes out.
3. Clean thoroughly
It’s easier to clean the nooks and crannies with all the components out.
You can wash both rollers. Dyson recommends using cold water only. Avoid using detergents as it can degrade the cloth material and only lengthen the process.
Check for any mass of hair on both axles and clean as needed.
4. Reattach the rollers
If you’ve washed the rollers, make sure it’s fully dry before attaching it on the nozzle.
Place both rollers back and reattach the cap, then lock in place.
Steps to clean the V8 main cleaning head
1. Remove the cap
Use a coin to remove the cap holding the brush in place.
2. Take out the brush
As you twist, the cap will pop out. Remove the lid and brush, then clean.
If hair wraps on the brush, use a scissor to remove it. Don’t forget to check the axles for any debris accumulation.
Grab a clean microfiber towel and wipe down the components of the nozzle. Also, clean the two small wheels in front, and the ball system as dust and sand will stick.
3. Reattach the brush
After cleaning, reattach the main brush and cap. Use a coin to twist and lock in place.
How to clean the Dyson V8 cyclone?
Lastly, let’s look at how to clean the V8 cyclone. Dyson doesn’t have a tutorial on this, but it’s possible with the right tools. Cleaning this component is a great way to extend the life of the V8. Dust will build up over time in this area, and cleaning will help it perform as well as new.
Since you’ll be removing screws, place a clean towel underneath your work area, and grab a ziplock bag for storage to avoid misplacing it.
Warning: Disassembling the cyclone is something I don’t think Dyson recommends. Doing so may void the warranty. I would only recommend doing this if the unit you have is past the warranty coverage and you’re the type who likes to DIY.
Steps to disassembling Dyson V8 cyclone
1. Remove the pre-motor filter
Please remove the pre-motor filter so it doesn’t get in the way.
2. Empty dustbin
Pull the red lever to empty the contents (if any), then push a red lever (check photo) to release the dust container’s outer shell.
Set it aside and clean it afterward if it is dirty.
3. Remove the cyclone assembly
With the dustbin’s outer shell off, locate the red lever you see in the photo below.
Push the lever, then slide the whole assembly upwards.
Use a torque screwdriver to remove these four Torx screws.
Once the bolts are out, place this component with the bolts inside a ziplock bag.
4. Use a flat tool to unfasten the screen filter
Grab a flat tool (like a flathead screwdriver) and gently pull it towards you as you rotate the filter assembly.
I didn’t use a flathead but instead this plastic tool.
As you pull, you will feel the clips loosen. Don’t rush this step or risk damaging the clips.
Once you’ve loosened the clips, pull the mesh filter out. Wipe a clean microfiber towel.
You could wash this with running water, but rinse it well and dry it thoroughly to prevent corrosion.
5. Remove cyclones
After taking out the mesh filter, you’ll have access to the Torx screws holding the outer cyclone shell.
Four bolts are holding it in place. After removing them, pull the cover. You can see how dirty this part is, and that’s why I mentioned wearing rubber gloves.
Once you’ve pulled out the outer cover, remove the inner part.
This time I used a microfiber towel because it’s filthy. No screws are holding it, so pull it out.
Look at all the filth covering it.
6. Disassemble the top cyclone assembly
There are two Torx screws outside and another four inside the cyclones.
Here’s the location of the two outer Torx screws (check photo).
And the inner screws. You may need a flashlight to find the bolt’s exact location because of all the dust covering it.
Four screws are holding the cyclones in place. Loosen all, then dismantle.
The cyclonic system of the V8 has various layers.
You’ll need to clean the pinkish-red outer gasket. Be gentle since it’s made of thin rubber.
And another smaller gasket located underneath.
Store all the screws in a ziplock bag to avoid losing it.
Lastly, remove this component from the cyclone.
Carefully remove the inner and outer gaskets. Don’t pull too hard, or it will tear.
7. Wash cyclone components
Clean the parts under running water. Some may recommend using liquid dish soap. I prefer using only water.
If you add dish soap, avoid strong detergents as it can degrade the plastic components. Also, use a little and rinse well.
Use a soft brush when washing the seals. These are delicate parts. Avoid scrubbing too hard.
Make sure there’s no soapy residue left on all the parts before putting it back together.
Reassembling the V8 cyclone
It’s one thing to dismantle, but putting back the cyclones will be harder and can be confusing.
So, I created a separate section for this as a guide. Please note that I don’t know the exact name of each element, so use the photos as a guide.
1. Attach the black gasket to this component.
Notice that the indentations are facing outward.
2. Join the cyclone cover and the part above.
3. Reattach the red gasket
Again, make sure the indentations of the gasket are facing outward.
4. Attach inner cyclone
The inner cyclone has five ports. I missed this part on my first try. So, I had to disassemble to reattach this part.
5. Install the outer cyclone and fasten the bolts.
Next, reattach the outer cyclone – six bolts are holding it.
Two are located on the outer part (check photo below).
There are also four bolts you have to tighten within the cyclones. A magnetic screwdriver will help to reattach the bolts.
6. Reattach the inner cyclone cover
This component doesn’t have any screws.
7. Then the outer cyclone cover
Don’t forget to tighten the four bolts to secure it in place.
8. Reattach the outer mesh filer.
Only clips hold the mesh filter. Place it on a flat surface, then push down until you hear the clips clamp on the frame.
Double-check to see if the mesh filter is securely fastened.
9. Connect the red lever on the cyclone assembly.
Tighten the four Torx screws.
10. Slide the cyclone assembly on the motor.
Line up the notches and slide the cyclonic component on the motor until you hear a clicking sound.
11. Reattach dustbin
The last step is to reattach the dustbin and pre-motor filter.
This video will help you with the step-by-step process of disassembling and reassembling the cyclones.
- Feb 27, 2024: Rewrote parts of the article for better clarity and removed some typos. Also, I added a table of contents section for a better user experience.